When the clock struck the hour of the Rat, the market next to the cemetery of O village (now Xuan O village, Vo Cuong ward, Bac Ninh province) began to light up, attracting a large number of people and tourists from all over.
Before opening time, a large number of people and tourists were present very early, gathering around the market area to wait for the opening moment, eagerly participating in the Am Duong market with the desire to “buy good luck, sell bad luck”, praying for peace and fortune for the new year.
Unlike previous years, the entrance area of this year’s market was heavily guarded by guards early on. In the dim light of the night, the entrances and exits were strictly controlled, people gathered outside and waited in an atmosphere that was both eager and solemn. Only at the exact opening moment, the market gate was officially opened, and a new stream of people entered inside to start the only special market session of the year.
Many people participating in the market had to grope each step in the dark, because the entire space was only lit by oil lamps and candles according to ancient customs, without using any electric light source at all.
Right at the entrance to the market, many stalls sell votive papers, incense, rice, salt, lighters… to serve as offerings for the deceased. In addition, the stalls also offer betel leaves, phoenix wings, fruits, rice flakes and a number of other traditional offerings, meeting people’s needs of “buying good luck, selling bad luck” on market night.
Since the restoration of the Am Duong market until now, it has been 4 years since Ms. Bich (Xuan O, Bac Ninh) participated in opening a stall here. She said that her stall mainly sells incense, joss paper, salt, rice and accepts New Year’s writings, serving people who come to celebrate and pray for good luck on the night of the market.
Ms. Bich expressed her excitement when the unique market was restored, becoming a spiritual and cultural meeting point every spring. Even though the market takes place at night and limited light makes trading difficult, she still eagerly waits for the market moment – an event that only takes place once a year.
At the market, one of the items that attracts special attention from many people and tourists is black chicken – an offering that many people choose to offer on the night of the market.
Mr. Bao (Xuan O village, Vo Cuong ward, Bac Ninh province), a person serving at the market, said that according to folk belief, if you buy black chicken at Am Duong market in O village on the night of the 4th day of Tet, you will have good luck, peace and prosperity throughout the new year. Therefore, even though the market takes place at midnight, many people still wait patiently, looking to buy the “market fortune” in early spring with the hope of a favorable and fulfilling year.
In particular, in the black chicken sales area, each person who wants to buy must bring the ticket issued earlier and wait in line for their turn, to ensure order and avoid jostling during crowded times.
Many people who showed up early were lucky enough to buy black chickens – an item considered “market fortune” on the opening night of the session. Ms. Nhan (Dao Xa commune, Bac Ninh) said that every year the market takes place, she proactively arrives early to line up, buy offerings, and buy black chickens with the hope of bringing luck and peace to her family in the new year.
Many people come to the market not only for the purpose of buying and selling for good luck, but also to perform spiritual rituals such as offering incense, turning gold and sending offerings to the deceased. In a candlelit space, each tray of votive offerings, incense, flowers, and salted rice is solemnly prepared, as a way to express respect, remember ancestors and relatives, and pray for blessings for the family for a peaceful and favorable new year.
The market space is arranged with many details reminiscent of the image of “the road to the underworld”, to recreate mystical elements in folk beliefs. This layout contributes to creating a sacred, contemplative atmosphere, intertwining reality and virtuality on the night of the 4th day of Tet, attracting a large number of people and tourists to experience it.
Participating in the Am Duong market is not just a folk cultural activity, but also contains profound spiritual value. This is considered an opportunity for people to express their feelings, remember the deceased, and seek comfort, sharing and emotional balance in the first days of the new year.
Le Tuan Tam
